I was thrilled with my two-day trip to take in Mongolian bird life in mid-migration, 130 kilometres from Ulaanbaatar. With an hour’s notice, Mongolica Travel team organised for me to join three of members in search of lekking Capercaillie. They were dedicated, skilled, hugely knowledgeable, well-equipped, deeply committed to conservation - and great fun. They use English-language bird names, and communicating was not a problem. We did find Capercaillie. Sadly they weren’t displaying, but there was so much else to see: Cinereous vultures, an Eagle Owl being mobbed by Choughs, a Goshawk - close up - Booted and Steppe Eagles, and among many passerines, my favourite: the Daurian Redstart. Not rare in Mongolia, but very beautiful. Travelling with such a fantastic team through the Mongolian landscape, up and down rutted tracks in a tough Russian four-wheel drive, wasn’t luxury tourism, but something much better than that: a real privilege.